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Nu-Seiki Karate

This is reference to the hard copy manual

 

                                  

                         Nu-Seiki Karate  

               Pronounced as New-Say-Key            

“Nu” stands for “New” in English, and “Seiki” stands for “Century” in Japanese

              Instructor Sensei Larry Williams

 

KARATE KA   PROGRESS LOG

             

NAME___________________________

 

Promotion Dates.   Page 2 of manual

 

Start date__________________________

 

Yellow belt ________________________

 

Green belt _________________________

 

Blue belt___________________________

 

 Purple belt _________________________

           

 Brown belt (3rd kyu)__________________

 

 Brown belt (2nd kyu)__________________

 

Brown belt (1st kyu)___________________

 

Black belt ___________________________

 

Student name ______________________________________________

  

History page 3 of manual

 

Karate is a science of unarmed self-defense and counterattack. The person using it employs parts of the body to ward off an attack and to injure the attacker by striking him with a severe blow in some vulnerable area of the body. Some techniques must be practiced without making contact because of the damage that could result.

 

Karate means “empty hand” in Japanese. The name emphasizes the fact that no weapon is used. Instead, karate converts areas of the body into weapons to aim at an opponent’s weak spots.

 

The art of Karate is more than 1000 years old and originated in Eastern Asia. A monk, named Bodhidharma traveled from India to China to teach the Buddhist faith. He developed a series of fighting techniques in which he used to trained monks to become stronger. Over a period of years the monks spread throughout China, and they shared their knowledge with the Chinese peasants. They used these fighting techniques to defend themselves against armed bandits. By the 17th century, these fighting skills had transmitted to the island of Okinawa. In 1922 Karate was introduced to the Japanese public through and Okinawan master, Gichin Funokashi. The Japanese highly developed the art, and Karate flourished in Japan. By World War II, Karate had reached the United States. Today the art is chiefly associated with Japan, and is taught in many different styles around the world. Gichin Funokashi is considered by some to be the father of modern karate.

 

Nu-Seiki Karate

 

I began my study of Karate in July of 1984, it was after I got my black belt in Goju-Shorei Karate in 1990 that I switched my main focus of martial arts to research and development of self-defense. Over the years with the help of my students I put together a system of self-defense that I called New Century Combatives. In 2022 I decided to mix the two disciplines to form my own system of karate. Nu-Seiki Karate.

 

From karate I took the basics needed to develop good kicking and punches needed for sport karate (kata and sparring).  I used a large part of my combatives curriculum for the self-defense. This was the beginning of Nu-Seiki Karate. “Nu” represents the word “New” of the English language , and “Seiki” is a Japanese word representing the word century of the English language. Nu-Seiki Karate is an American Karate system developed in the 21st Century.

 

Sensei Larry Williams

 

 

Rules of the Dojo Page 4 of manual

 

1. Safety First

2. Bow when you start or finish a class.

3. Always refer to the instructor as Sensei during class.

4. A full karate uniform is to be worn in Dojo during class.

5. Always clean the dojo’s safety equipment before putting it away.

6. Always be respectful to the school, Sensei, and to other students.

7. No horse play in the dojo, karate is a serious class.

8. Always maintain good personal hygiene.

9. Do not attempt to teach what you are learning without expressed consent of Sensei.

10. Any classes by appointment should be on time or notify the sensei.                                        

Kata List

1. Oiyu (oi-you)              

2. Pinon Shodan   

3. Pinon Nidan

4. Pinon Sandan      

5. Pinon  Yodan    

6. Pinon Godan                

7. Epmi 

8. Kankudai  

 

Japanese Numbers

  1. Ichi (eet-chee)            

  2. Ni – (knee)                                         

  3. San – (sahn)               

  4. Shi -  (she)                             

  5. Go -  (go)                               

  6. Roku – (roke)             

  7. Shichi – (she chee)                

  8. Hachi – (hah chee)                 

  9. Kyu – (kyoo)              

  10. Ju – (joo)                                

 

Japanese Words page 5 of manual

                                             

Heisuki-dachi------------Formal Attention

Fudo-dachi---------------Formal Attention Advanced

Hachyi-dachi-------------Get Ready Stance

Kiba-dachi----------------Side Fighting Stance

Zenkutsu-dachi ----------Forward Fighting Stance

Ko Kutsu-dachi----------Wide Back Stance

Koneko-dachi------------Narrow Back Stance

Tsuru-dachi---------------Crane Stance

Mae-Tsuru-Kyu----------Cross Step Stance

Seiken-Zuki---------------Forward Punch

Gyaku-Zuki---------------Reverse Punch

Riken-Zuki----------------Backfist Strike

Haishu---------------------Backhand Strike

Tate-Zuki------------------Vertical Fist

Shotei-Zuki----------------Palm Strike

Empi------------------------Elbow Strike

Mae-Ude-Ken-------------Forearm Thrust

Nagashi--(Punch Away Block)--Double hand Push

Shuto------------------------Knife hand strike

Tettsu------------------------Hammer fist strike

Jodan-Age-Uke-------------High block

Chudan-Uke ----------------Middle block

Gedan-Uke------------------Low block

Shotei-Uke------------------Palm block

Shuto-Uke-------------------Knife hand block

Mawashi-Uke---------------Round Block

Mae-Geri---------------------Front Snap Kick

Mae-Ken-Geri---------------Front Instep Kick

Mae-Kekomi----------------Front Thrust Kick

Mae-Fumi-Komi-----------Front Stomp

Yoko-Kekomi--------------Side Thrust Kick

Mawashi-Geri---------------Roundhouse Kick

Mae-Tobi-Geri--------------Flying Front Kick

Yoko-Tobi-Geri-------------Flying Side Kick

Mawashi-Tobi---------------Flying Roundhouse Kick

 

Traditional Karate terms page 6 of manual

 

Dojo (doe-joe) – Exercise Gym for Karate

Dachi (da-chee) – Stance

Kyu ( Q ) rank----under Black Belt

Dan rank – Black Belt level

Geri (gerry) – kick

Hajime (ha-ja-may) Start

Karate (ka-rah-tay) – Empty hand

Karate Ka (ka-rah-tay-kah) Student of Karate

Kata (kah-tah) Prearranged Form

Kiba Dachi (key-ba-da-chee) Side Fighting Stance / Horse Stance

Kiai (key-eye) – Yell

Kumite (koo-me-tay) – Contest

Obi (o-be) –belt

Mae (may) – Front

Mate (mah-tay) – Wait (stop)

Rei (ray) – Bow

Sensei (sin-say) – Teacher

Uke (oo-key) Defender

Tori  (tor-ee) Attacker

Zen (zen) – meaning peaceful and calm. Thought, absorption, meditaion.

Zuki (zoo-key) – Punch

Yoska Rei (yoh-ska  ray) –Formal attention – Bow

Gi –(gee) – uniform

 

Terms and meanings related to street violence. Page 7 of manual

 

1. De-escalation – (talking your way out of having to fight)

2. Pre-emption – (to hit first)

3. Pre-emption distance - (close enough you can touch him without moving your feet)

4. Justification for pre-emption

    1. You must truly believe that the subject will attack if you don’t hit first.

    2. If you are at a safe distance from the subject, and if you move forward to strike, it will look like you started the          fight. If you start the fight you can’t call it self-defense.

5. Spike – Is to strike with the tip of the elbow from a framed head cover. (caged head)

6. Flank – Moving to the side of the subject for your attack.

7. Main artillery – Is a few strikes in your toolbox to be considered your main weapons.

8. Pincher Attack and how to avoid it.

9. Interview – is when the subject is in your face making treats.

10. Cage – means to cover the head with hands and arms. Also referred to as “caged head” or “Framed head”

 

Traditional Basics page 8 of manual

 

Stances

  1. Formal Attention----------------------(Heisuki-dachi)

  2. Formal Attention Advanced---------(Fudo-dachi)

  3. Get Ready Stance.--------------------(Hachyi-dachi)

  4. Side Fighting Stance (narrow and wide)-------------   (Kiba-dachi)

  5. Forward Fighting (loose guard)--------------------------(Zenkutsu-daci)

  6. Wide Back Stance (knife hands)-------------------------(Ko Kutsu-dachi)

  7. Narrow Back Stance (knife hands)-----------------------(Koneko-dachi)

  8. Crane Stance-------------------------------------------------(Tsuru-dachi)

  9. Cross Step Stance (front or rear)--------------------------(Mae-Tsuru-Kyu)

 

Blocks (from a Get Ready Stance)

  1. High Block (as you move into forward stance)---------------(Jodan-Age-Uke)

  2. Middle Block (as you move into forward stance)-------------(Chudan-Uke)

  3. Low Block (as you move into forward stance)-----------------(Gedan-Uke) say G don

  4. Palm Block (as you move into a narrow back stance)-----------------(Shotei-Uke)       

  5. Knife Hand Block (as you move into a narrow back stance)------(Shuto-Uke)

  6. Round Block (as you move into a narrow back stance)-------------(Mawaski-Uke)

 

Strikes - from Get Ready Stance and moving into a Forward Fighting Stance.

  1. Forward Punch------------------------------(Seiken-Zuki)

  2. Reverse Punch------------------------------(Gyaku-Zuki)

  3. Backfist--------------------------------------(Riken-Zuki)

  4. Backhand---------------------------------------(Haishu)

  5. Vertical Fist------------------------------------(Tate-Zuki)

  6. Palm Strike-------------------------------------(Shotei-Zuki)

 

Kicks (from traditional karate stances)

  1. Front Snap Kick-------------------------------------------------------(Mae-Geri)

  2. Front trust kick (with heel or ball of the foot----------------------(Mae-Kekomi)

  3. Front Instep Kick------------------------------------------------------(Mae-Ken-Geri)

  4. Side Thrust kick (narrow or wide side stance)----------------------(Yoko-Kekomi)

  5. Rear Snap Kick from Get Ready stance------------------------------(Ushiro-Geri)

  6. Hook Heel Kick (sometimes thrown as a slap with bottom of foot) ------------(Kagato Geri)

  7. Flying Front Kick (not a required kick)------------------------------(Mae-Tobi-Geri)

  8. Flying Roundhouse Kick (not a required kick)----------------------(Mawashi-Tobi)

  9. Flying Side Kick (not a required kick)--------------------------------(Yoko-Tobi-Geri)

 

Modified Basics Page 9

Stances

  1. Street Guard

A stance with hands in a ready position. Hands can be any position of readiness, but if you want a better chance at protecting yourself against his attack, your hands need to be higher than the subject’s hands during the interview.

 Strikes

  1. Vertical Fist - used 2 ways---------------------(Tate-Zuki)

    1. As an intercepting strike

    2. As a preempted strike

  2. Palm - 3 ways-----------------------------------(Shorei-Zuki)

    1. Lead hand

    2. Rear Hand (usually used with a grab/index)

    3. Thrown as a hook

  3. Elbow---------------------------------------------(Empi)

    1. Round Elbow (with one hand pulling the head onto the elbow)

    2. Elbow Thrust (this involves shoulder moving in the direction of impact).

    3. Elbow to rear (low and high)

    4. Elbow as an uppercut

    5. Downward Elbow

  4. Forearm Thrust - 2 ways--------------------------------(Mae-Ude-Ken)

    1. With a lunge

    2. With a step through.

  5. Forearm hook (2 ways, as a hook to side of neck, and a close line to the front)

  6. Forearm Club (thrown like a knife hand)   

  7. Jab

  8. Double handed Push

  9. Straight Punch (a straight reverse punch to the head)---(Gyaku-Zuki)

  10. Knife Hand Strike (Traditional karate chop)--------------(Shuto)

  11. Knife Hand Thrust (throat is the target)-------------(Shuto Kekomi)

  12. Hammer Fist (3 ways) ----------------------------------------(Tettsu)

    1. Downward

    2. Lateral (fore knuckles up)

    3. Lateral (fore knuckles down)

  13. Spiked Elbow (from a caged/framed head)

  14. Slap with lead or rear hand

  15. Headbutts (include the impactive headbutt)

  16. Fore Knuckles Punch - (neck is the only target)

  17. Fore Knuckles Hook punch

  18. Body bump (to knock him off balance)

  19. Pushing one head into another.

  20. Cradle Blow (used to get a gag reflex from grappling range)

  21. Throat grab (used to choke or to gain compliance)

  22. Rapid Eye Blitz

  23. Impactive Clinch                                  

 

Modified Basics continued. Page 10

 

Blocks

   1. Cage the head (also called frame the head, this will place the tip your elbow in position to spike.

   2. Extended block (lead hand block from old school boxing)

Kicks (from street fight positions)

  1. Push Kick

  2. Front shin kick to groin.

  3. Sweep kick (to ankle or lower leg, don’t snap it back, take space)

  4. Upward angle round kick to the leg

  5. Round kicks to legs (various angles)

  6. Hook heel kick to the groin or inside of the leg.

  7. Side Kick to the legs.   

  8. Oblique kick (to shin or knee)

  9. Stomp (main target is the leg of downed subject)----------------------(Mae-Fumi-Komi)

 

Self-Defense Game Plan page 11

 

Practice awareness all the time. This will greatly increase your chances of picking up on threats early enough to avoid conflicts.

 

  1. Awareness, and Avoidance

    1. A fight avoided is a fight won, and no one got hurt.

    2. If approached by anyone you don’t know and this person tries to engage you in conversation, walk past them and turn back to face them, so you can see to your rear. This type of attack is called the pincher attack and it is commonly used by criminals.

    3. Developing awareness when you meet people while walking. As they approach and pass, turn your head slightly and use your peripheral vision to make sure the person keeps going.  This is not being paranoid it is developing awareness skills.

  2. Escape at the first opportunity.

    1. Before the fight starts.

    2. At any point during the fight if escape presents itself.

    3. As soon as the treat is no more a danger.

  3. Protect space (use a guard stance)

    1. Take a deep breath and breath.

    2. Remain calm.  

    3. Help to control tunnel vision, by purposely scanning with your eyes.

  4. De-escalate – talk your way out of the situation.

  5. Pre-empt

    1. If you wait too long to pre-empt you may have to intercept.

    2. If you wait too long to pre-empt and interception fails, you are now hit.  Cage, base and attack.

 

  1. Control your emotions, do not continue your attack when there is no more threat. Be able to shut down your aggression when it is no longer needed. If you continue your attack after the subject is no longer a danger, it is no longer self-defense.

 

Awareness (Color code) Page 12

 

  1. White - Totally turned off to your surroundings.

   2. Yellow - Paying attention to your surroundings, actively looking around, make it   

                     obvious that you are aware of your surroundings. Yellow Alfa is a step    between Yellow and Orange.                       You are in a situation that could turn into danger, so you are just more aware of the situation at hand.

  3. Orange - You have a problem, now is the time to plan your action.

  4. Red - Time for action, fight, or flight. Failure to act may lead to freeze.

There are no rules for fighting in the street but there are some guidelines.

  1. There are no guarantee of anything you do in a fight being successful. Your best defense is don’t be there, the next best defense is a strong offense.

 

   2. When the fight is on, it is always your turn. It is not a sparring match.

 

   3. Constant forward drive. (eat space) If you are on your toes and going forward with attack, and the subject is            going backwards, he is losing.

   4. In the pre-fight stage during the interview, never close the gap to pre-empt. If you are not close enough to               touch the subject, he will most likely see your attack coming.

   5. Never take a fighter’s stance during the interview. Keep the element of surprise on your side. Hands must be          open, not clenched into fist. Talk with the hands.

  6. When using Control holds or Pins for the purpose of controlling the attacker, use them with a verbal command        to indicate you want to stop fighting. This might calm him down instead of forcing him to fighter harder.

 

Pre-emption / Interception / Reactive - Your first strike will always fall in one of these three categories.

    

  1. Pre-emption is to hit first. (Best chance of success is to attack while he is talking)

  2. Interception is to block and hit him as his attacks.

  3. Reactive attack is to attack after you blocked out of reflex. Ambush recovery is a form of reactive attack.

 

De-escalation tools page 13 of manual

 

  1. The apology de-escalation. (know at least one example)

  2. Feed his ego de-escalation. (know at least one example)

  3. Create space to get distance. It could be a step back, or a push. The best thing to do if you push him away is to step back yourself as you push rather than shoving him backwards. A lot of people will see the aggressive push as justification to attack you. Don’t keep backing up. At some point you must stand your ground if you have no avenue of escape.

  4. Deceptive dialog to set-up pre-emption (know at least one example)

The Techniques page 13

 

How to train

 

For the most part the content in this system is not a list combinations and techniques. It is only a list of things to train. You can choose a personal solution to deal with any situation and drill that solution to make it your own. As time goes on if you discover a better solution, change what you train. 

 

You should not see how fast you can go from one strike to the next. Always keep enough time between the strikes to confirm your next target is available, then focus on the speed and power of the strike. Always be prepared to branch to something else if your current technique is failing, and always escape at the first opportunity.

 

Flanking

 

1. Flank as you use one or both hands to pull at his arm, now run. (Low level of force option.

2. Palm slap to groin as you flank to either side, follow up with a variety of strikes.

3. From the flanked position, use the body bump to move him or to break his balance.

4. He is square he shifts weight and hand goes out of sight, double hand pass to his shoulder and arm as you           flank to his side. Monkey grip catch his arm then attack.

5. Slap groin as you flank to get tall man down.

6. For use against two subjects, slap the groin as you flank to line the attackers up, palm push to the head and           maybe add the body bump while pushing the head of the first subject into the other subject.

Ambush Recovery (Cage/Frame your head). Page 14

 

  1. Attacked from your left. Cage and counter attack.

  2. Attacked from your right. Cage and counter attack.

  3. Spike with elbow to your right of his center, go offensive.

  4. Spike with the cage to your left of his center, go offensive.

  5. “Solo drill” from a relaxed stance imaginary attacker on each side. Practice dropping into the “Framed Head” position for each side at random. Simulating you spotted an attacker in time to spike as you close the gap toward him.

  6. Ambushed from the rear with a push or a strike. Default to a counterclockwise rotation and get on the offensive. (Protect the head as you rotate)

 

Basic Defaults in your self-defense toolbox. (use this list or build your own)

  1. Index, Straight Punch/Palm to the head.

  2. Index face, vertical fist solar plexus, forearm thrust to neck, knee kick to a target.

  3. Vertical fist, forearm thrust, knee. (Subject is square in front)

  4. To his left side (subject is bladed right), vertical fist to the heart, forearm to the neck.

  5. To his left side (subject is bladed right), vertical fist to the heart, pass behind.

  6. To his right side (subject is bladed left), vertical fist to the liver, forearm to the neck, knee kick to body.

  7. Form his left/rear, punch to kidney, palm to skull, elbow to back of the head.

  8. From left/rear, palm to skull, hook slap back of head, elbow to kidney, elbow to head.

  9. From his right rear, move to right side, forearm thrust to the neck, knee. (Taking the underhook as you move to the front is an option)

Strike Combinations for Strike Practice page 15

  1. Forearm hook to the left side of his neck, forearm thrust to the right side of his neck.

  2. Closed stance, forearm chop to the neck.

  3. Closed stance, lunging forearm thrust to the neck.

  4. Closed stance, lunging knife hand trust to the neck.

  5. Body Bump from the over hook or the under-hook side control.

  6. Intercepting the fighters dance with cage and punch. Double lunge to cover more distance. (more testing on this one)

 

Sucker punch counters (train as a trigger to go from freeze frame positions)

 

  1. Counter from guard after a reflexive block against right sucker punch. (Best block is frame the head)

  2. Counter from guard after a reflexive block against a left sucker punch. (Best block is frame the head)

  3. Subject throws a left and right. (Best block is frame the head)

  4. Subject throws a right and left. (Best block is frame the head)

  5. If he fakes, attack him.

 

Slapping Combinations

 

  1. Lead hand slap and forearm thrust, knee. Foot work is either Step-thru or Lunge.

  2. Rear hand slap and forearm thrust, knee. Footwork is a Lunge.

  3. Impactive Clinch - Lead hand slap to pull onto the rear hand forearm hook, then pull face to shoulder.

 

Slammed against the wall.

 

  1. Two handed lapel grips.

  2. Two handed chokes.

  3. One handed grip.

  4. One handed choke.

  5. Forearm on your throat or chest and pressed to the wall.

  6. Grab and a punch coming. May or not be backed to the wall.

 

Dealing with a knife attack. Page 16

 

You have absolutely no business going unarmed against a knife if running is an option. There are no guarantees. If you are faced with the threat of a knife and running is an option, run. There is a lot of information available on how to deal with a knife assault. Some is good stuff; some will most certainly get you killed. How does someone with no experience and no training know who to listen to? My answer is do a lot of research and use common sense and make your own decisions. Just because your best friend has been training in martial arts his whole life, don’t assume he has the best answer.

 

Some say to defeat a knife you must learn to fight with a knife. I think there is a lot of truth in that statement, but I don’t want to learn to fight knife on knife either. If I can run, I will.

 

Others say gain control of the knife barring limb and get the attacker to the ground. I like that concept except for one thing. When you gain control of the limb it is still a fight until you gain and maintain control. If he slips out, you are probably dead, or the fight for control starts over.

My opinion is to hurt him on first contact. If he is hurt on first contact your chances for survival has just increased. This is why I say that unarmed against a knife in motion I am only thinking of one technique if I can’t run. “Swimming Underhook” This is a forearm thrust across the neck or face at the same time my other arm is deflecting the attack with the “Swimming Underhook”. First contact (if successful) will hurt him and take his balance. Finished with a knee to the groin.

As for the knife fighting experts out there, I would hope that anyone who has dedicated themself to becoming an expert is not the kind of person who will attack innocent people with a knife.

Sparring Knife Drill (unarmed against a knife)

Never attack first against someone brandishing a knife. He will see you coming. Always look for an improvised weapon.  If you must go unarmed against a knife in motion keep your hands higher than his and palms facing inward. Intercept the knife attack with the “Swimming Underhook”.

You must swim with the arm that mirrors his attack. Expect the attacker to attack fingers, hands, arms, or even kick to set up his more lethal strikes with his knife.

Be sure to drive through with the forearm on neck to destroy his balance and hopefully knock him out as you employ the swimming underhook. If you break his balance, he must first fight to regain his balance before he can get back to attacking. This gives you a slight advantage. The forearm strike on the neck might also knock him out.

Understand it does not matter how good you think you are; no one has a guarantee of being successful when going unarmed against a knife. 

Seven angles of knife Page 17

The only reason to train these counter attacks is just so you develop reflexes that might come in handy in the case you block a knife (or other weapons) out of reflex. If the situation is real and the attacker is at sparring distance it will be like sparring unarmed against a knife, and in that case, I only recommend the swimming underhook with a forearm thrust to the neck or face or thrat.

 First learn all the drills from right guard against either of his hands. Then practice as if you were left-handed against either of his hands.

  1. Seven angles of knife attack. (Offense only of the knife)

  2. Reflexive block drills for seven angles.

  3. Reflexive blocks and your counter.

  4. The advanced drill is to block against random attacks. (Practice this without and then with your follow up)

Subject brandishes a knife

The subject is in front of you making threats with his knife, you are trapped with nowhere to go. De-escalation is not working. If you feel you don’t have a chance unless you pre-empt his attack, here are a couple options.

  1. Clothesline - If he is keeping his knife to his rear side, if his lead hand is out in front for any reason, throw the forearm (close line) as you move behind his lead arm. This is a risky move. If you try this from outside of pre-emption range, he will see you coming. This is not a technique you look to set up. Only practice this so that if your find yourself in a position for the clothesline (forearm hook across his throat or face) it will have been made available in muscle memory. 

    2. Cross Instep snap kick against someone that is holding the knife out in his lead hand. If you try this kick, it             must be very fast and with the front foot. I have pulled this off a few times in training drills. I have never fought         in a rear knife attack. This is not the knife disarming kick that we all have seen so often in movies. It is different         and harder to see coming. Best defense against a knife if you have a choice is always to run.

Sewing machine style knife attacks. Page 18

  1. Lapel grab and stabbing. Knife in his right hand.

  2. Lapel grab and stabbing. Knife in his left hand.

  3. Cross grabbed with his left hand to your left lapel, stabbing with his right hand.

  4.  Cross grabbed with his right hand to your right lapel, stabbing with his left hand.

  5. Single collar tie hold and stabbing. Knife in his right hand.

  6. Single collar tie hold and stabbing. Knife in his left hand.

 

Slammed against the wall with a knife threat.

 

  1. Knife in his right hand and to your neck. Work all practical positions.

  2. Knife in his left hand and to your neck. Work all practical positions.

  3. Knife in his right hand and to your belly.

  4. Knife in his left hand and to your belly.

  5. Knife in his right hand and to your groin.

  6. Knife in his left hand and to your groin.

  7. Knife on your face with pressure.

Knife threat to your body. (Robbery attempt in open space)

1. Closed stance the knife in his right hand to the right side of your neck. Holding you with his left hand.

2. Closed stance the knife is in his left hand and to the left side of your neck. Holding with his right hand.

3. Open stance, the subject has the knife to the front side of your neck.

4. Experiment with many possible positions of being held up with a knife to your body in open space. Learn to              make up techniques on the spot if needed.

5. Main drill is to make up ways that you could be held up and look for ways to deal with it.

More to come soon. Next will start with Quick escapes

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